Wednesday, October 1, 2008

casino

11:00pm.

After taking more than 3 hours of nap, or should I say sleep, I woke up and get myself ready. We haven't taken our dinner yet. And tonight we want something oriental.

With my colleague Armin, we cross the street and headed towards Pyramisu for dinner. It was a non-eventful activity, nevertheless. We finish dinner after an hour and went back to the hotel immediately.

We thought of taking a stroll towards the 6th-of-October bridge but ruled it out thinking that would take another toll to our already weary knees. Hence we decided to just stay in the hotel and visit the casino instead. That's we did, actually.

The Sheraton Cairo Casino is quite nice. But compared to other casinos I've visited, this one is relatively small and not crowded. The setting actually made me hesitant to get in. I initially thought, this may be an exclusive casino but recanted when I saw the betting patterns on those who were in the table.

I didn't play. I am not a gamble and not a type of person who play with a game of chance. I do understand the game though, and knows how to play it. But putting a bet on the play? That is a big no no to me.

My colleague - Felix - on the other hand played. I know that this guy really plays in casinos even in the Philippines. And tonight was not his lucky day. he lost a hundred dollar in the slot machine. Hehehe... better luck next time.

* * * * * *

The feel of the casino brought back some memories to me. I remember a girl in St Catharines Canada who used to spend some of her weekends in the Casino and enjoys playing slot machines.

Tsk tsk tsk... I wonder, how is she right now?

at the egyptian museum

It was getting late in the afternoon. We left the Ibn Tulun mosque at around 4:15pm and decided to proceed to the Eqyptian Museum of Antiquities.

And finally after five hours of "sightless" visits to mosques and citadels, I saw some "food for the eyes". Hehehe... if you don't get what I was talking about, I will spell it out to you. There were so many beautiful ladies in the musuem and almost of them were Caucasians. And you guess it right, some of them were wearing skimpy shorts and flunging necklines (no bra?). Hehehe..

But that is not what we came here for, right? We want to see mummies not hot mommies. Nyahahaha.

Seriously, we went to the Egyptian Museum to see the famous King Tutankhamun and other royal mummies. And lo and behold, we we were amazed by the magnificent collections of the Egyptian Museum. The main hall of the 1st floor houses two great statue (I don't know who) and hundreds of stone carvings and relics. Further down several halls were various collections of vases, earthwares, weapons, and many more.

The second floor gather a more important collections of various royal items. There was specially temperature-controlled hall which houses several golden coffins belonging to paraohs and royal families. Of course, the most famous of them was King Tut. There were other royal mummies in there such Ramses III, Amenhotep and many more whom I cannot remember.

The museum was so large that I failed to visit all the halls and rooms. My estimates, you need at least three hours just to quick visit (walk-through) all the items on display. Sad to say, we only had 30 minutes left before the museum closing time. We came at 4:30 and closing time is 5:00pm.

Huh!, why didn't we go here directly instead of visiting those mosque? Darn that driver.

Anyway, I managed to take some pictures inside the museum. Hehehe... of course, it was forbidden to take pictures inside but for a 1-second photographer like me, that would not matter. Don't expect superb quality pictures though. I did set my camera to high ISO (low quality) so expect lots of digital noise in the pictures.

Outside, I did manage to take pictures of the museum, of myself, and... of beautiful ladies.

Not a bad after all. The 30-minutes museum visit was much more eventful than the 5-hours visit on the mosques.

more mosque

We didn't stay long in the blue mosque. There was nothing to see there, anyway. Besides, I was tired with all the walking and was experiencing heat burns on my face and arms.

Our guide brought us to the mosque of Ahmad Ibn Tulun. It was another large Samarran-style mosque, seated on a hill called Gebel Yashkur (The Hill of Thanksgiving"). Our guide proudly said (in broken English, of course) that this was the place where Noah's Ark came to rest after the Deluge - not Mount Ararat.

It was a fascinating local legend indeed. I would usually ignore him but not this time. Maybe because I was tired, that is why I stayed on the taxi and continue listening to him. I forego the idea of roaming around the mosque.

The guide shared more stories like how the soldiers of Napoleon Bonaparte tried to bring down the walls using cannons but failed. Several movies, he added, where shot here including a James Bond Movie. (It turns out true: The Spy Who Loves Me")

When my colleagues came back, I strongly suggest to cancel all the rest of mosque visit. I argued that there was no significant difference among the mosques (aside from its history), and once you saw one then you've seen them all.

They readily agreed.

the blue mosque

Next destination: the blue mosque

Blue Mosque! This must be another beautiful mosque, I thought. The title alone suggest something grand and unique among all other mosque. If you want to know what it is... read on. Ghehehe...

The ever optimistic driver brought us to the "innards" of Islamic Cairo. He drives us through very narrow alleys and very busy streets filled with sidewalk vendors and children running/playing with the passing cars. "Am I in Tondo Manila?", I thought. But honestly, our slums are no different from this place.

It did not come as a surprise when the driver stop on a small dilapidated building. It was barely a mosque. There was no roof (doom), only two wall sides, all arches are broken, and only a portion of the blue wall was kept intact. I guess, it's just a 4x6 meter wall with partially filled blue tiles.

One minaret is still standing, whom the guide eagerly offered for us to climb - to see the old Cairo! I readily replied, "No way!" My knees is not that strong anymore.

Aside from that minaret, the Blue Mosque is nothing but ruins of an old Mamluk-type mosque.

the Cairo Citadel

Next Stop: Citadel Mosque

"Ehh... what?", I exclaimed! Our guide - that same taxi driver who barely speaks English - repeated, "Citadel Mosque". Duh!

Based on my limited vocabulary, I know, a Citadel is a fortress often large enough to include castles, towns or a city. Mosque on the other hand is a house of worship for our Muslim brothers equivalent to churches of the Christians. Well, if what the guide is saying is right, then this must be a very humongous mosque.

It turns out... when we get there... that the place is an old fortress commonly known as the Citadel of Cairo. In history, this was called as the Saladin Citadel of Cairo and was fortified by an Ayyubid ruler during the 12th century. In present times, it contains the Military Museum, the Police Museum, the Al-Gawhara Palace, and three Mosque.

The huge Mosque of the Mohamed Ali towers above all the building in the Citadel. From afar, the defining dooms and twin minarets of the mosque overshadows all the other structures. No wonder, locals often confuses the Citadel and the Mosque as one.

Okay, the mosque is big. The architectural designs were great with lavish details and the cupola (ceiling) was simple awesome. You know, I did lay down on the carpeted floor just to see the entire ceiling at once. Most tourist did! And wow, the courtyard and pillars were covered with shiny alabaster. Our guide whispered, "those alabasters were taken from the great pyramids". I did not believe him, though.

The mosque is historically important as for Egypt as it contains that tomb of the founder of the present-day Egypt: Mohamed Ali Pasha.

After an hour of walking around, I realized that there are two other small mosque inside the Citadel. The mosque of Al-Nsir Muhammad and the mosque of Suleyman Pasha. Both mosque are often skipped by tourist because of their obscure locations. Well, I did visit both, and found nothing worth remembering.

Gee... I just exhausted myself.

old streets and garbage

I thought, walking along the old Cairo streets was a breeze. I was wrong!

Typical of an old - if not ancient - city, old Cairo is no exception to poor road networks, maze-like access to pathways, poor lighting and horrible garbage problem. And the obnoxious odor of the streets greeted me with fangs, right after I went out of the taxi.

Garbage were everywhere. I could find only a handful of garbage bins, and if there is one it is surely filled three times its capacity. I don't think there is a garbage collector in the city. Garbage in the streets have rotted, a tell tale sign that these were never collected for years.

If you think that this is a niche problem in the suburbs and in the old Cairo, think again. Even the upbeat Downtown Area (modern Cairo) has the same problems. Garbage both new and rotten, litters the streets. Even famous landmarks such as the "6th of October Bridge" were not spared with unmindful disposal of garbage.

Nevertheless, the River Nile was spared. I didn't see any floating garbage during our cruise yesterday.

So, you in Metro Manila. Be thankful that Bayani Fernando is doing his job. And he is doing it par excellence.

where they found baby moses

I now appreciate the significance of this place.

Walking furthermore, I got entangled with a bunch of French and Spanish tourist. Clueless of where I was going, I decided to follow the flock. In my mind, I could take a free orientation of the place by just listening to their tourist guides. The predicament though, the guides speaks in Spanish. Que Horror! hehehehe... Thanks to Spanish 1, 2, 3, & 4 classes way back in College, I still understand conversational Spanish. hahahaha...

I followed them as they entered a narrow and dark entrance leading to an semi-underground worship place. It was dimly lit, stone cold and filled with arid foul smell. I almost dediced to get out of the center until I heard the guide explain the significance of the area. "This is the oldest existing Jewish Synagogue in Egypt - the Ben Ezra Synagogue", the guide exclaimed.

What is Ben Ezra Synagogue, I thought?

Ben Ezra - also known as Geniza Synagogue - according to local tradition, was the site where the baby Moses was found by the Pharaoh's daughter. This place used to be a river swamp filled with reeds, and the favorite hang-out of the Pharaoh's royal families. The lot was purchased by Abraham bin Ezra of Jerusalem in the 9th century and then they built the existing synagogue.

Huh! That was a mouthful, isn't it? Forgive me. I am a history buff, hence I could not contain myself writing too much history in my blogs. hehehe

Back to reality. There I was sitting on a cold marble slab and was looking up on the ceiling wondering how magnificient it is. This place had been buried in the mud for hundred of years, yet it still retains majority of its architectural integrity and design.

With the history fact that Moses was "drawn" here, gee... it leaves me thinking, what it's like during the age of the pharaohs?

St George Church - an old greek church

Our taxi driver - who barely speaks English - brought us to the Old Cairo City. With much difficulty, he tried to explain that the place was the trading center of the city, a thousand years back. These are historical sites that are note visiting, he said.

Honestly, I didn't know what to expect. I was just wandering aimlessly on the alleys with a naive purpose of taking pictures of anything that interest my eyes. I did take pictures of the old streets, of people - mostly beautiful women, of architecture patterns, and of anything that attracts my attention.

And when bump onto the entrance of an old Church, I was surprised to learn that I have entered in the famous Greek Church of St George. They said, the Holy Family visited this place, thus the area carries not only historical memories but religious significance as well. Frankly, the place is far from it's glorious past. Poor maintenance and too many tourists contributed to the fast deterioration of the place.

Nevertheless, I do admire the fact that there are still faithfuls who regularly visits the place to pay their veneration of their patron saint. I went inside the convent and witness - first hand - how they perform Christian worships the Coptic's way. I took pictures, of course, but made sure that my flash gun is off to preclude unwelcome light burst.

Oh, I took a picture of the beautiful sculpture of St George and the Dragon at the the patio, on my way out. The sculture was full of details and surprisingly intact despite of age.

Tuesday, September 30, 2008

the next day

My first day in Egypt, I could conclude was eventful. I experienced what it was like to ride on Camel, wander into the desert for over an hour, and then watch the scenic Pyramids from a distance. For a noob like me, it was a satisfying experience.

Yesterday, the guides tried to convinced us to go back the next day (today). They tried to entice us, saying, the scenery of the Giza Necropolis would be much beautiful to behold when there is plenty of light. They even promise to lead us to some tombs where we could find real mummies and real helioglyps. Well, that if we come back and then get them as guides too.

But we didn't listen.

My sixth sense was tingling and I did feel that the guys were deliverately over charging us and were taking advantage of our generosity.

Hence today... no pyramids. We went out to see the old Cairo

light and sound show

We still have an hour extra before the gates will open. Hence, we decided to take our dinner on an Indian restaurant just across the gates.

The place was good. Our table was situated on the rooftop of the 4-storey building and from that vantage point, we could see the light & sound theater. The waiters told us that we need not go inside the gates because we can see the theater and we could also see and hear the show from the rooftop. All we need was oder some food so we will be allowed to stay.

The pyramids during the Light & Sounds Show
The pyramids during the Light & Sounds Show

Indeed, the waiters were right. We watched the show from the rooftop and with a much better view of the show. More importantly, we save 75 pounds each for the entrance tickets.

I was also able to get some night shots of the lighted pyramids

Papyrus deal

An hour and half of camel ride made my legs numb. It took me awhile to fully recover my composure and made a straight walk. I believe, the horse back was far more comfortable. Just look at my colleague. He didn't experience any numbness on his feet.

While waiting for the taxi, the tour guide invited us to a nearby Papyrus Museum. The owners (and the guide) were very accomodating and even offered us free drinks. He then showed us his vast collection of papyrus paintings, papyrus hieroglyps, and papyrus artworks of varying sizes and colors.

There were all beautiful but I was taken aback when I saw the tag prices ranging from 300 pounds for the A4 size papyrus to as high as 3000 pound for the A1 size papyrus. I guess the guide saw our expressions, that he wisphered to us saying he will ask for special price and discount. Few minutes later, he came back and boasted that he manage to negotiate a 60% discount for every A3 size painting plus he will give us a free A4 painting for free. Now the prize is set 500 pounds - more of less a 100US$.

The deal sounds fantastic, but deep in my mind, I have doubts with the sincerity of the dealer. Call it hunch, but I could sense that he was taking advantage of us - big time! Yet, I still gave in.

You know why? My colleage took the bait and I followed suit. Hah! I know, this was a mistake but I just close my eyes and think that this is better than being robbed or mugged on the streets.

As consolation perhaps, the guide lead us to the gates of the pyramids. Indeed it was close. The guards, however, informed us that they will open at 7:30 pm for the light & sound show.

Giza

Later in the afternoon, we decided to take another trip. This time our destination was the Pyramids.

The simple thought of seeing the magnificent Great Pyramids of Giza was exhilarating. All I had in mind was to go there and see it. I didn't bother to search the Internet to check what to expect and didn't even ask the Sheraton concierge for information on how to get there. All we did was get a taxi and asked the driver to take us to the pyramids.

We easily agreed when the driver asked for 80 Egyptian pounds for a one way trip. That's cheap - just less than 20US$, I thought.

from afar

Excitement filled my heart when I first saw the apex of the pyramids from the distance. The driver - with very little English - tried to explain each pyramids. I didn't mind him though. I know, he was talking rubbish because he was mixing contemporary myth with factual information.

Few minutes later, I was surprised when the driver took us to a local Camel and Horse stable - and not on the gates to the pyramids. He quipped in broken English "pyramids closed, go desert, pyramids look, ride horse"

I looked at Armin and I could sense that he was not comfortable. But I insisted. We paid 80 pounds each for the camel and the horse (I took the camel) and paid another 300 pounds for the guides.

I was really happy and overwhelmed with the feeling of riding a camel. I didn't mind how bumpy it was. Seeing and riding a real camel, was a big experience that I would surely boast to my friends.

Soj in the Giza Necropolis

When the guide lead us to a desert hill overlooking the pyramids, we were already contented. "At last, I have seen the Great Pyramids", I shouted. We stayed for few minutes, took some pictures, then started moving back to the stable.

Monday, September 29, 2008

Nile River


Too much excitement perhaps, I woke up early - 6am to be exact - and hurried to the hotel balcony just to see how Cairo looks like in broad daylight. I was still groggy from the jet lag last night but it all disappear when I saw the beautiful Nile River just below our hotel room.

The view was spectacular. The large Nile river (where we are staying) is forked with an island and is littered with small boats and rowers. Four bridges connects the island and the river banks. Noticeable also, is the moderate traffic of cars and pedestrians crisscrossing these bridges.

We didn't waste time. Ater taking breakfast at the Sheraton Tea Garden, we took a stride on the Charles de Gaulle street. We treek along the street and ended up besides the Nile River bank.

The boat rides easily catched our attention. And without second thought, we talked to the caretaker to take up upstream of the Nile. He agreed for a fee of 100 Egyptian pounds each.

And yes... I experienced a simple "cruise" on the Nile River. Something that I would treasure for the rest of my life. A shadow of experience on what the Paraoahs did 5000 years ago.

For more pictures, please visit my website in PBase at Streets of Cairo or Egypt Landscapes. The same pix can be seen on my alternate site at Amazing Egypt although it is not arranged well.

my first step to africa

EgyptAir flight MS650 made a smooth landing on the Cairo International Airport runways at around 2am. Everything seems in order and we didn't encounter any inconvenience even at the immigration area. My colleague - Armin - bought few bottles of Black Label at the nearby duty free shop, and in less than thirty minutes, we were already on our way to the Sheraton Cairo hotel.

Our trip was relatively easy and there were no complications along the way. Except for the kamikaze driving style of the taxi driver, there is nothing I could complain of. And just when I thought that we made a mistake of choosing a taxi, I was surprise to see all Egyptian drivers do the same. Hah! Would you believe? Not only they do snake driving but the do a dangerous blind far-right U-turns.

I remember what my Egyptian friend used to tell me before "speed limit is a suggestion, road lane is decoration, and snake driving is a must". Now, I fully understand what he meant.

I would commend the taxi driver though, for bringing us to the Hotel safely.

Tuesday, August 26, 2008

that long?

Huh... I believe I woke up from a long slumber - ala sleeping beauty - and here I am, back to my blog again. I couldn't believe, I hibernated for more than 4 months? That long? Tsk.. tsk.. tsk..

Gee, I never thought I would be that busy least forget writing in my blog. Worry not, my friends. I'll try to make it up. Opss... I already promised to do that last April. hehehe.. This time, no slips. I'm pretty sure of it.